a guide to Byron Bay, cos you asked for it
* this post is regularly updated*
I’ve been asked a few times by readers to provide a visitor’s guide to Byron Bay. I’ve been here almost a year now. Blimey! I live just outside of Byron on seven acres in the forest, but I come into town almost every day to surf, have coffee or tea, buy groceries, run to the lighthouse, go to yoga etc.
Photo Trent Dooley via Common Ground
Byron is a unique place. It’s both a sleepy, old-school coastal hamlet in bits, but big bands and performers pass through regularly. It’s full of fancy Sydney types, but the sense of community is potent. It’s transient, but everyone feels they belong. For a while. And everyone has a theory on the place (why there are seven single women to every single man, why there are so many divorces in the area…). I quite love it. For now.
So a guide, based on places, experiences I’ve come to love. I contacted some of my favourite people I’ve met here to share their tips, too. Also, for a great overview of what the locals are doing, and what gigs are worth seeing, check out Common Ground.
You might also like to read about the road trip I did in the area a little while back…
coffee at the Top Shop, photo by Johnny Abegg
1. Coffee
My favourite is a weak long black at the Top Shop. They also serve organic milk on request. And everyone sits out on the lawn and chats in the sun in the morning. My other pick is Bayleaf. They roast their beans across the road. And they have sun all day out front. I’ve been able to drink coffee again since I’ve been in Byron (I cut it out for three years because it upset my adrenals). My theory: Byron is, energetically, a very Kaphic place (heavy). Kaphic areas grow stimulants – coffee, chocolate and chilli – and indeed these are the big crops for the area. And so it makes sense, it fits, to drink coffee here. It’s appropriate. Most cafes serve local coffee.
Johnny Abegg is a surf filmmaker from Byron Bay and photographer at Common Ground. His coffee suggestion is also Top Shop. In fact, it’s pretty much the local pick.
Clare McGregor is a music publicist- Vitamin Records – in Byron (and maaad Words with Friends fiend), and suggests the cafe up at the lighthouse – it wins hands down for view.
Sarita Merlo is a naturopath and herbalist, and is the founder of the Byron Bay Tea Company. Her favourite coffee is from Utopia in Bangalow.
2. Chai tea/tea leaves
I’d say the Byron Beach Cafe (the one down in the dunes) is best. In part because of this view:
the view from Byron Beach Cafe
Sam Gowing is a Byron-based organic chef and food consultant. She recommends Targa, for their real teapots that don’t drip, and real tea leaves – the best green tea in town.
Lizzie is co-owner of a flagship boutique, Spell & the Gypsy Collective. Byron Bay Tea Company teas are on the menu! Try the Byron Beach cafe, Harvest, ATE, Bangalow Dining and Fundamental Food Store Cafe and experience the magic of Byron Bay from your teacup!!!
Jacqueline McCoach is a Byron-based jewellry designer and owner of ‘Jewels by Jacqueline’: the Beach Hotel [this is a surprising inclusion, but a few people say the same...locals love the place in the morning.]
Kazzie Mahina is the founder, designer and director of Oceanika Tales and Mahina Mermaid Productions (my mermaid friend and a mad chai drinker!). She recommends The Balcony or Mokha for a chai.
Sarita: Ate, in Bangalow
3. Breakfast
* My new favourite is One One One opposite Dendy cinemas, off the beaten track a little. It’s geared at folk like me who don’t want to pay $47329 for eggs on toast when you don’t eat toast. Two boiled eggs? $3.90. Add some Hayter’s Hill organic sausages and a chunk of roast pumpkin ($2) and that’s a build-your-own start to the day with style. The coffee is amazing, the staff are gorgeous (and long-time locals) and it’s very much a “local find”.
The omelette roll at Top Shop is superb. Top Shop make their own rolls, too. The BLT at both Bayleaf and Dip are great. While you’re at Dip try the cashew biscuit – virtually sugar free; just nuts and egg. While at Bayleaf, the haloumi roll is also great. And Harvest at Newrybar is ace for vibe and value (makes for a great excursion en route to Bangalow).
Sam recommends Targa for breakfast, ‘hands down’.
Lizzy also rates the Top Shop omelette roll.
Sarita: One One One [Actually, a stack of locals rave about this place... I haven't eaten there yet]
My mate Pat from Grinspoon rates Succulent for smoked salmon on toast.
Johnny says his favourite is coffee and breaky – surf style – at Macs Milkbar
4. Burger or pizza, and other easy meals
OK, The Top Shop burgers are amazing (sorry, Top Shop refs will stop now). They have fennel seeds in the patty. And the chips are superb, too. The Treehouse does really, really good gluten-free pizza. And it’s a fun place – down at Belongil beach, outdoors with open fires. Very Bali-like.
Sam: best lunch and weekly survival meal when I feel like ‘uncooking’ is The Awakening buckwheat pancake at the Conscious Cafe, and a young coconut – just love it. Also, Jemma’ s new Naked Treaties Raw Bar of course for their new green juices as well as their awesome coconut and cacao smoothies with a pinch of E3Live which I have daily.
Johnny: for pizza it’s Milk & Honey in Mullumbiimby by a mile!
Lizzy loves Treehouse Pizza, too. But the best burger is the ‘house burger’ at Macs Cafe. If you’re into seafood get the Life Aquatic, if you’re vego go the Peter Pumpkin Eater. And the best thai food is Thai Garden in Lennox – it’s worth the 15 min drive out of town. fresh and made with lots of love – it’s my fave!
5. Special dinner
I’ll keep this short and sweet. Pretty much everyone agrees: Italian at the Pacific, Satiate in Bangalow (now run by Katrina Kanetani who’s just appeared on MasterChef), Harvest Cafe in Newrybar (look out for their special themed/degustation dinners on a Thursday). I also think the food is great at St Elmo’s and the service is amazing (try the chorizo with almonds and the beef cheek). PS I’m personally not a massive fan of the Italian’s food.
6. Cocktails/wine by the glass
I think St Elmo’s and Harvest are best for both. The staff know their stuff. At both.
Lizzie says Harvest cocktail menu is unique and different. Created by Tristan, one of the owners, there is an interesting selection of cocktails using native ingredients such as finger lime.
7. Accommodation
My friends Kerry and Michael stayed at Atlantic Byron Bay during their visit recently. It’s in the centre of town, but back from all the backpacker action, and just across the road from Targa. They stayed in their VERY CUTE Silver Bullet van. In the evenings while they waited for me to grab them, the drank beer from coasters sitting out under the lean-to and channelled 1962. A novelty option. There’s also one and two-room options. More info here.
Sam: we stay, and reccy our mates to stay, at Byron Executive Accommodation!
8. While in Byron you must try:
One of my favourite things to do is the daily ocean swim. We meet at 8am at the Surf Club, walk to The Pass and then swim back (about 1.5km). A group of 20-50 locals do it every single morning. I do it once or twice a week. First time I did it I got mauled by bluebottles, the second time I swam over a shark. But don’t let that put you off! The old locals who’ve been doing it for decades make it the most wonderful start to the day. Anyone can turn up and swim. It’s free. Also, running/walking from Clarke’s beach to the lighthouse and back is magic. At sunrise. I do it as early as possible and meditate on the eastern most point of Australia with the new sun on my face. I did it the other day, looked up, and there were two whales breaching right in front. Did I say magic?
here’s me and Clive after a morning swim.
Sam: come over for a private Surf Spa Food cooking class with me! [Sam's unique teachings of Food as Medicine have been showcased in her internationally recognised cooking school for than twelve years. She hosts individually tailored private Byron Bay classes and public Masterclasses are sought after worldwide.]
Sam also suggests a punt and a schooner at the Great Northern Hotel. And for a great ‘green foodie’ experience, visit Freckle and team at the Byron Bay Seafood Market and learn about sustainable fishing in our local waters.
Kazzie suggests Sunday afternoon at the Beach Hotel - try the octopus salad and a cold one after a long beautiful day at the beach. Picnic sunset dinner at the pass or Wategoes. Walk up Mount Warning. Hang glide over the lighthouse – very recommended!
Clare: ‘Starfish’ in Brunswick Heads for the best calamari …ever. And ’Rock n Roll’ Cafe in Mullumbimby is great, as is The Poinciana for the Mullum vibe, lovely outdoor tables and sandpit for kids. Also check out the local markets, and keep your eye out for Francesca Rockette and her beautiful bags. Torakina Beach at Brunswick Heads is great for toddlers. Crystal Castle also great for kids (and adults) – stunning setting, sculpture walk and gardens.
Johnny: an early morning view of the sunrise from the lighthouse still amazes me after 16 years in the Bay.
the lighthouse
Sarita: try an espresso martini at Italian at the Pacific. And visit the sauna and spa at Kiva Spa.
Kirra Pendergast is a third generation Byronian and local businesswoman : a meal and a beer on Friday evening whilst they do the local fishing club raffles at The Rails is always good. Grab a coffee at the lighthouse and walk down to the most easterly point. Snorkel around the Julian rocks.
Lizzy: go for a skinny dip at the Tea Tree Lakes, ask around and locals will give you directions. And the best kept secret is the rainforest boardwalk behind The Byron at Byron – you wouldn’t know it but it’s open to the public and is a spectacular place to go to meditate or just a gentle stroll…
Lizzie’s creations, available at Spell
Lizzie also recommends the cottages down ON Clarkes beach. You cannot get a better posi in Byron Bay- rain, hail or shine you can soak it up down there and get some real relaxation. You can literally roll out of bed, walk 20 metres and lunge in the ocean. Pure bliss!
9. If you’re here on a (specific day of week/time of month) you must:
Me, I’d recommend doing the Thursday local farmers market (look out for the raw food stand – the hummous is amazing – and the mushroom ladies – the shitakes almost make me cry – oh, and the ginger couple and the sprouts lady…) and the monthly Sunday craft markets (they rotate around Byron, Bangalow, Mullum and The Channon).
Byron Farmer’s Markets on a Thursday
Sam: if you’re here in winter, enjoy the whale migration. Also, Sundays through Thursdays Happy Hour at the Byron at Byron is full of locals.
Johnny: if you’re in Byron Bay on a Saturday, drive around and have a look at the array of garage sales, unbelievable what people are selling, and the creative measures they go to. Sunday afternoon at the beachfront car-park (overlooking the wreck), when the weather is good, you’ll get a heap of percussionist’s playing tunes until the sun goes down.
Clare: visit in November and go to the Mullumbimby Music Festival – one of the best small scale music festivals around for all ages and persuasions. Loved for its friendly, inclusive atmosphere – quality music (a mixture of popular national/international acts with yet-to-be-discovered surprises) in existing venues throughout the funky town of Mullumbimby.
Kirra: join a beach clean up every tuesday morning at The Main Beach Carpark with Positive Change for Marine Life. Also, check out The Artists Trailat The Arts and Industry Estate. And for the kids – the YAC Rock Cafe every Friday Night at the Byron Youth Service (Youth Activity Centre).
10. Healing treatments:
I love going to Mullumbimby and using Mullum Sari’s infrared sauna. A beautiful space and experience. Then I go to Santos on Main St for a dandelion tea. Worth the excursion.
11. Best massage:
I go to a great local woman who works from home at Suffolk Park with her husband ($45 for an hour): Rachel: 02 6685 4466. The Medicine Wheel is great if you’re after some options and I always tell visitors to hang at Kiva spa in Mullum for a day.
*I’ve just tried James’ Atlas treatment. It’s a one-off treatment that aligns the atlas joint (he can do home/hotel treatments). He also does a scenar treatment which I’ll be posting on soon. jameskorber@gmail.com 0457808044
Sam: for best value, Byron Herbal Thai Massage, just upstairs from Cardamon Pod Cafe
Jacqueline recommends Universal Medicine in Goonellabah
Kazzie suggests a Kiva Spa massage, followed by a spa and sauna.
12. Whackiest/coolest healing/treatment:
I advise checking out the classifieds in the Echo and the noticeboard at Santos in Mullum. It’s intriguing just how many different esoteric healings one can have!
You might want to book in with Ly the witch. I wrote about her here…she’s based in the area. Email her at Ly de Angeles lydeangeles@gmail.com
Sam: Best Chinese Medicine massage: cupping & Moxa. Best Ayurvedic Hot oil treatment for chronic muscle pain - Ambaji House of Wellbeing
Kazzie: Ruth Smith at Abundantia
Sarita says go for a tarot reading from Michelle at Crystal Castle
Sam also says “whenever I’m having a spiritual meltdown I call on Liz Winter, a medium in Mullum”
13. Look out for local talent:
I saw Lisa Hunt play at the Beach Hotel a few months back. I was dropping past to grab a bottle of wine with a friend. I was in my pyjamas…and had to check out what the fuss was about. Oh my. The place was packed with pretty much everyone in town. If Lisa is in town (I think she’s here Sept 4 next)…you MUST go along.
Sam: Tijuana Cartel at the Beach Hotel. Lisa Hunt – Sundays, once a month in spring/summer at the Beach Hotel
Johnny says local musician M. Jack Bee will tear at your heart strings. Keep an eye on that name.
Clare says always pick up a copy of The Byron Echo – Mandy Nolan’s column(local comedienne) alone is worth it, as is the classified section – yoghurt weaving anyone? The Echo is also the place to check out what bands are playing – loads of amazing bands come through Byron on their tours.The Byron Bay Community Theatre is one of the best venues to catch an intimate gig. Also look out for local record label Vitamin Records – chock full of fine independent talent.
Sarita says look out for Tres Hombres, or DJ Slinky
Kirra suggests you grab a show at The Byron Community Centre Theatre – Mouche Phillips from Ripe Productions pulls some great stuff through from her days at The Opera House.
14. Shopping:
As you might know, I’m not much of a shopper but I do recommend Island Luxe (in both Byron and Bangalow) – they stock Jacqueline’s amazing designs there – and Butik (which stocks Spell jewellery). The Retro Shop in Bangalow is very cute and the craft markets (every Sunday in different towns in the area) is actually very, very cool…not a crocheted coathanger in sight. The random junk yard in Bangalow is also really cool.
Lizzy: Visit the Arts & Industry Park… you’ll see glass blowers, silver smiths, gorgeous bohemian labels (like Spell!!), fairy shops, vintage stores, a circus tent, soap and candle makers… it’s the real heart and soul of byron. [The tourist office has a map/trail for the area]
the Spell shop
15. extra helpful things:
For a wax/tan: Carla at Be Waxed Be Tanned on Fletcher street is super +61434522240. And a delight to visit. I giggle the whole way.
Surfboards: I bought my longboard from Brett Munro of Munro Handcrafted Surfboards at the Industrial Estate. He’s a Byron legend. An all-round legend. He hand-shapes all his boards and sells quite a few second-hand. The experience was soothing in itself because Brett is THAT laid back. He also lets you take a board out for a trial and will let you exchange if you’re not 100% comfortable. NOTHING is a problem.
Any Mac computer issues: this guy is seriously the best computer fixerer on the planet – Tom at Mr Mac (0418 408 869). He comes to you, cleans out your hardrive as part of the service – $80/hour.
ananta yoga: in a grim location (up near Mitre 10 on Jonson St), but Geoff is a sublime teacher. A vinyasa style with tough bits.
Sam: since the affable and very funny Geoff Brooks opened Ananta next door to my home I’ve never been bendier! His studio offers a range of classes with a variety of teachers and I love the fact the he often plays the Rolling Stones during practice – and that there’s not an ounce of purple or a whiff of patchouli anywhere! My kind of perfect posture practice.
Osteopathy/chiropratic. I write all day and it stuffs my posture. My neck gets thrown and so I have to go and get cracked back into place. Not ideal. But you do what you have to do. In Byron I go to Peter. He’s a super passionate surfer who knows a lot!
Hope that helps…feel free to add your own tips below…
Aw man this is hard reading sat here in the office
Now that I’m day dreaming about an escape, do you know of a good place to stay, preferably eco friendly?
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August 12th, 2011 at 8:53 am
Possum Creek Eco Lodge just outside Bangalow. x
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Seven single women to every single man! Now I know why my mate has just moved to Watego’s…..
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August 11th, 2011 at 1:29 pm
7 to 1? What about the quality over quantity question?
I’ve been told it’s mostly middle aged women that are slightly feral or going through their own mid-life crisis (or The Change).
No wonder all the men have scampered!
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Sarah, you’ve already piqued the interest of the men with your one liner about the man to woman ratio, nice
This was timely as it was just yesterday that I decided my next holiday ought to be near Byron. The thing that gets me excited is to hear about being able to drink coffee, I hear you on the adrenals affect (thyroidy types), here in Melbourne I have to be really careful and am often on decaf :-s I love my coffee and would love to be able to enjoy without all the cruddy side effects, so next holiday is Byron for sure!! Very interesting about the energy of the place, I’d like to research that more in relation to Victoria.
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Best thing ever = Byron Bay Cookie Company!! They do gluten free cookies that actually taste like real cookies. (Celiacs will understand that sentence!) I haven’t had one in ages due to nixing the sugar for a bit, but any celiacs who aren’t so strict, oh man. They are divine. You can get them most major cities in Australia now, which is rad.
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August 12th, 2011 at 12:17 pm
They sticky date cookies are the best!
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August 12th, 2011 at 5:56 pm
With the ginger? Oh Lordy, its like heaven in my mouth. The macadamia ones are something special too.
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August 12th, 2011 at 6:04 pm
Yep they are the ones – it’s a long time since I’ve had one because I used to be able to buy them at work in the cafe but they don’t get the Byron Bay cookies anymore. Not happy Jan
If I remember rightly the macadamia ones had white chocolate in as well, oh dear, maybe all this talk of Byron Bay cookies has sent me scavenge for something sweet this afternoon!
August 12th, 2011 at 6:24 pm
They sell them at a place in Perth called the Wild Fig cafe, which from what I can tell is set up to be a bit like a typical Bondi cafe but in Perth. You know, beach views, vegetarian/organic/gluten free options, relaxed feel. A lot of other cafes around here sell them, and Perth is pretty much a black hole for anything new/ inventive, so surely wherever you are Jan there are some around!
Failing that I think you can go onto their website for stockists. Or, you know, order them in packs of like 35. Dependent on your level of cookie addiction.
August 12th, 2011 at 9:03 pm
Oh dear, me ordering 35 at a time would be a recipe for disaster!
I remember talking to a real estate agent who worked around Byron Bay and Murwillumbah and she was saying so many new couples who moved to the area split up because men ‘didn’t do very well in the area’, not in a monetary sense but as in they did not feel anchored or secure. It got me thinking about rural, western areas and how there is a much larger male population. Masculine vs feminine landscapes.
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August 11th, 2011 at 1:31 pm
It’s VERY intriguing. You see it very clearly here.
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August 11th, 2011 at 6:15 pm
From an indigenous perspective, I heard that Byron was considered a healing place, so perhaps there’s a strong feminine presence in the area. Looking at landscape feng shui would also be interesting (I’m a practitioner and eternal student of the subject)!
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August 11th, 2011 at 1:31 pm
Masculine vs feminine landscapes? More like a feral/weirdo vs people-who-have-jobs landscape I think!
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August 12th, 2011 at 5:30 pm
Never judge a Byron Shire Feral! They quite possibly own the Cafe you’d be happily drinking in – or designed the amazing outfit you just bought…
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I’m so overdue a trip to Byron!
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Personally, Byron is not my thing. When I was last there a little over a year ago, I got the sense that it was full of early 20 somethings trying to do as little as possible. The amount of people in cafes simply just “hanging out” was astounding. I just got the feeling of laziness in the community. To be honest, I was disgusted. I also didn’t dig the shops either – I don’t need a dream catcher for God’s sake. The fresh, clean food is good, but it’s not exclusive to Byron. One last thing, hippie culture kind of gives me the shits anyway. It should be called “I can’t be f*cked culture”. If you can’t be pro-active about having a shower, you probably can’t be arsed doing anything else either.
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August 11th, 2011 at 1:30 pm
I know what you’re referring to. A good place to be if you’re SUPER busy and the relaxed vibe is both a reminder of a) how to relax and b) why you like beign a busy person!
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August 11th, 2011 at 4:34 pm
That’s a good point. I also think that about living on your own. It’s great if you are super busy (great to come home and chill and shoot off again) but if you aren’t busy it can get pretty dull.
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August 12th, 2011 at 6:03 pm
Sure, Byron is not for everyone? The early 20 somethings are nearly all Backpackers – lucky them doing nothing – but they sure add to the character of the town – and its economy. People just hanging out in cafes are quite probably other tourists like yourself, Johnny (looking at you and wondering why you’re not at work!). No one NEEDS a Dreamcatcher! I agree soap is cheap. It’s not Metropolis for sure. It is, in essence, still a small coastal town – with a fantastic community that I’m lucky to be part of.
August 12th, 2011 at 6:28 pm
Johhny, I know what you mean exactly without ever having been to Byron! Its interesting how certain places just have that feel, and attract free-floating hippie types. I think Fremantle in WA can be a little like that. They have a blues & roots festival that echoes Byron’s, incidentally. People are funny when they mirror each other!
August 13th, 2011 at 11:49 am
such a valid point johnny, I’m in the process of sorting all these questions out too. i really yearn to move from sydney to the country where i grew up and of course couldn’t wait to escape from. But am i going to soon miss the energy of the city once the novelty wears off. i know in many ways my child would benefit from space as opposed to apartment living. it does get lonely, you do feel restricted. hard one.
October 3rd, 2011 at 9:36 pm
The hippy culture in Byron is fast fading and will be sorely missed, as property prices mean the pig headed tacky property developers and yuppies do their usual thing of trashing the very thing that attracts people to a place…. (I live in B yron Shire, but not Byron itself, and work full time… for what it’s worth). The alternative lifestylers, irritating as they can be at times, add to the colour and atmos of the place. You can see over priced corporate claptrap anywhere,and the Gold Coast is just up the road if that’s your thing… and I often think people complaining about others lazing in cafes are possibly jealous…
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ah, amazing review. you’ve captured the essence of byron, i feel. i miss that place. the beach hotel is one of the most amazing places. i’ve had some of my best nights there. i love the sleepy, warm, organic, down-to-earth feeling byron, bangalow, possums creek, balina, lismore… that whole area! one of my favourite places in the world.
i moved to sydney for uni, and i can’t wait to go back home! can you take more pictures of the locals, the surroundings. i wish i had more photographs of the place
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Ahh yes, Byron. I. Interesting energy. I moved there 3 years ago with my fiancé..living the dream, beautiful house, ocean views. We had been together for 4 years living together in Melbs and Sydney…We lasted 3 months in Byron…Very sad. I have heard many indigenous say Byron is a place for healing and then moving on…
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August 11th, 2011 at 2:10 pm
Why did you leave Claire?
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August 11th, 2011 at 5:32 pm
My body pulled me out of there, I actually became physically ill. I then moved up to Mullum..did some further healing and moved on..
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Bad odds for finding a husband Sarah! What are you doing!?
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I live in Casino but we go to Byron a few times a month or so and love going to the bangalow farmers markets. I love the chilli garlic squid from Fishheads, it’s amazing! Also Starfish in brunswick for the calamari, and for health I have to say the Rainbow Centre in Lismore!
I’m envious of you Sarah, oh what I would give to live in Byron (or Bangalow)! xx
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Sarah, in a few of your recent articles the idea of “for now” is quite dominant. Is this your way of not committing or an easy escape plan if all goes pear shaped?
Can you see yourself staying there long term or is it the type of place which one could quite quickly tire from? (have never been there but it seems like people move to reassess life and rebalance then move on).
Probably a good place if you’re a woman into same sex relationships, but not for trying to find a husband! Perhaps you need to move Mt Isa or Port Hedland when the ratio of men to women is reversed.
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Oh & I just noticed the photo of you in bathers. Your body has totally changed from your Cosmo bikini days! You have a much more feminine & natural look about you now. Glad to see you’re eating these days.
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August 15th, 2011 at 9:58 pm
ahhh, it’s called getting older.
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August 16th, 2011 at 10:48 am
“Glad to see you’re eating??” Wow… bitchy.
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August 16th, 2011 at 1:07 pm
It didn’t sound like a bitchy comment. Sarah was extremely skinny in the Cosmo bikini shot.
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August 16th, 2011 at 1:28 pm
And another woman’s weight is your business how, exactly?
I used to be really skinny and would have people stop me in the streets, shout at me from passing cars, complete strangers offering me their opinions on my eating habits. I know now that I was probably hyperthyroid, as I became hypo later on and had other symptoms, etc. It’s very presumptuous and rude to assume a thin woman doesnt eat.
We really need to stop judging other women by what they weigh. Especially since Sarah mentioned hyperthyroidism in her past. So disappointing!
August 16th, 2011 at 6:08 pm
Whoa Mia, I can’t believe that people were so rude to you! I have had several very slim friends who eat like horses and don’t put on weight and that can be just as psychologically devastating as those of us who carry a few extra pounds and put up with rude comments! When you read the latest about how many 4-6 year old girls are unhappy with the way they look, it makes me cringe as to how we are going to develop young adults with strong, resilient natures who are happy to be who and what they are.
Just read the twitters and your knee – sounds v painful
Do you think this might be the 3rd sign ( along with fractured foot & getting stuck in the swamp) you need to slow down and stay put for a while (& perhaps finish your book)?
Hope you recover quickly
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For now .. sounds like a nice place to get your shit together if you’ve got other stuff going on.
Thanks Sarah .. liked your “feelings’ blog too.
Looking forward to more on you and Louise Hay.
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Agree with Lizzy re the Arts and Industry Part – it may not be pretty but many interesting types at work behind concrete walls and roller doors.
Best burger – The Beloporto chilly chicken burger.
Suspicious about the 7:1 ratio.
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March 19th, 2012 at 11:18 pm
No really it is 7:1…(or more) and for the most part the single women you meet in this region are fabulous…interesting, switched on, talented, intelligent…..mad to move here really given the odds…still a morning lighthouse walk, a swim and a great coffee keep me here…
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Sarah,
This is a lovely piece on an area that I have had a relationship with since I was a young girl. My parents live in the area now (Ewingsdale).
Anyway, since you love riding and the beach (or so I assume from your writing) I thought I would let you know that my dad has recently started doing beach rides in the area. They meet at Belongil and ride north up the coast when the tides are out. He loves it.
Katie
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Sarah………………. can I come and live with you?
(as I sit her with my head tilted trying to get the antibitoic ear drops remain in my ear for the infection…)
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ok this post makes Byron sound like a great holiday (but not to live) destination. Sarah, do you have any advice on yoga classes? Is Jessie Chapman worth it?
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What a gorgeous guide… If I didn’t already live here I’d want to move here myself. Thank you darl’n – this is such a generous guide for anyone visiting – or even for someone who lives here and is stuck in their own routine (like I didn’t even know there was a cafe at the lighthouse???! And heading to Dip to try one of those cookies tomorrow.) xx Lizzy
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August 12th, 2011 at 2:09 pm
Lucky you Lizzie
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Hope to see you Sarah & everyone at one of Byron’s many festivals – Sample Food Festival at the Bangalow Showgrounds Saturday 10th September 9am – 3pm.
There will be 22 food stalls serving $5 and $10 dishes competing for the coveted Golden Fork Award as well as cooking demo’s, markets, live music & entertainment all day.
Will be a great day
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August 15th, 2011 at 9:59 pm
Nice. The food around here is superb
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Hi Sarah,I think I saw you on a flight the other day ,fantastic work honey,love your list ,I have a few things i would add but its pretty bloody good love xxx Jan smith
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August 15th, 2011 at 9:59 pm
you should’ve said hi!
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Hi there Sarah,
I am from Byron Bay but have been living in Sydney for 3 years.
I miss home dearly and all my family & friends. Johnny is a good friend, nice see you have met him & Lizzy
I have begun to feel the pul to move back home, i miss the energy and the inspired people.
I also just read your article on Louise Hay- i have been a massive fan since i was 14 and live by her words. What an honour it would have been to meet her!
My mum also does the ocean swim nearly everyday! You may may have met her, Sharon Yarrington a bubble of positive energy!
I love writing and i started a blog sometime ago called Mind Body Spirithttp://elishayarrington.blogspot.com/ Unfortunately since i have been working full-time i have not had time to write, which saddens me as this is my passion. If you have a moment you should check it out
Peace Love & Light
Elisha
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OK Sarah, what’s the deal with your front teeth? There’s that gap again (bikini photo).
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August 11th, 2011 at 10:27 pm
yessus man. who cares! what kind of question is that to ask somebody..
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August 15th, 2011 at 10:00 pm
no gap. must be the lighting.
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I don’t even live in Australia and I felt a surge to fly into Byron! I once did a swim race there, I think in 1999, maybe in May or June? It was quite a big event. I thought Byron was a beautiful place, but wasn’t really captivated by the overall energy. Maybe it was too slow for me at the time!! Love your red bikini, by the way.
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August 11th, 2011 at 10:32 pm
PS Sorry – forgot to add that you’re inspiring me with your lifestyle experimentation. I’m very impressed (and frankly envious!).
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[...] every single man, why there are so many divorces in the area…). I quite love it. For now…. READ MORE on Sarah’s [...]
Hi Sarah,
Just love this site.
We have just loaded our own website for our much loved Beach House at Kiah. I would love to put a link on our site ton yours if you approve. I feel your advice and tips are genuinely good and we enjoy so many of the locales our selves when we are in Byron.
We in fact live in Rarotonga, Cook Islands for most of the year and come to Byron 3-4 times a year. FYI our website in the Cook islands is http://www.heliconiahideaway.com
Thank you for such a great site…
By the way Lisa just has to be one of the best live acts …ANYWHERE!…we are in fact trying to get her over here in the Cook islands.
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August 12th, 2011 at 5:47 pm
Raratonga: Fruits of…
Tamarind House meals
Pa’s Tours
Daily Flights to Aitutaki!
“SIGH!”
You and yours really are living the dream!
Oh well- at least I’m living the Byron half
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August 12th, 2011 at 7:13 pm
Yes we are living a dream…but as with all things we still have to work hard at it every day to make it happen. The Cooks are a wonderful place to live…and for us we have Byron to run away to when we need some difference.
Cheers
John
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We used to walk to the top shop from clarkes camping ground when we camped as a family every Easter many many years ago! Next time I take my family down in a
few weeks although we don’t camp, we stay at a retro cabin on the beach, I’ll get them to walk up there for breakfast.
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Look at you hot woman! How do you fit all that you do into one life Sarah, truly amazing. Thanks for the info, am bookmarking for the future.
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I did a 5 year stint in Byron (well, more Suffolk and then Bruns)… my husbands family live in the area and we still ‘go home’ every few weeks (now based on the mid north coast). Headed ‘home’ last weekend, but strangely felt it was no longer ‘home’. I’d had romantic ideas about moving back but now I’m not so sure. Think I may have finally mentally moved on – with the price of housing, it would have only been a lotto win that could have brought us back anyway.
Sarah; Did you have the pleasure of meeting Jonno Howell? He had a bit to do with the Common Ground crew. An old staff member of mine, and a true legend. RIP matey!
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Have to agree with Kazzie about Ruth Smith from Abundantia/Ruth Smith Healing for a blow-your-mind-healing session.
Also for massage try Lucy Foster – most fantastic massage of all time…goes forever and is thorough and hard–but not too hard. (she comes to your place…0424 030 190)
Not so sure about the Top Shop anymore – haven’t been back since they charged me $5 for a coffee!!!
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Hey Sarah,
Stoked you published my shot (the top one). Take them daily here in Byron in http://www.puredrift.com.
Great article.
Cheers,
Trent
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[...] Sarah Wilson’s guide to Byron Bay, which is somewhere I just NEED to go. [...]
This is so cool… A few weeks before I went to Bondi for the first time you posted a guide and now this time I am off to Byron for the first time at the end of the month!
Perfect timing I say, thank you Sarah xx
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As with Karlosohies (hello my dear), I also lived in the area for six years – absolutely loved it, and had a love affair with Byron since I was 17- experimenting with lots of different things, freedom, spirituality blah blah. I think it really is an area to be lived in to experience. If you trip up there and stay in town you miss the essence. The essence is not the main drag of Byron – most locals will hardly go to down, particularly not in peak times..I would say you need to experience the nature and hinterland, behind Mullumbimby for example. Experience the whales travelling passed, watch a mullet school being rounded up, participate in the community (I had a health a lifestyle radio show which was a blast!).
Yes, I agree there is a hazy vibe often with people bored out of their brains. Too much drugs and lazy attitudes.
But the area is buzzing, if you have yourself on track there is a huge creative vibe to tap into. I definitely think its a healing and mixing area..Indigenous people would gather there, but tales say they did not live there per se…who knows. The nature is stunning, some of the people there are stunning. Love the Top shop, swimming at Tallows, lighthouse, Broken Head back beaches, Wanganui…
Great tips from Sarah for anyone visiting…and chuck your radio dial to 99.9 – some shows are hilarious! Def a way to tune into the area
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I grew up in the area, and also returned to work there about 5 years ago for 2 years. Don’t understand the hype about Byron. To me it has been destoyed. Always feel disappointed when I return and see all the internet cafes, youth hostels and wanky shops.
There are thousands of beautiful, unspoilt places around Australia where you can also get a great coffee, without the pretentiousness and “coolness”.
Apart from it now being an obligatory part of the backpacker journey, it also is full of people who move there and change their names to Bluebelle, or Lizard.
Anyway, I don’t always like the vibe of “cool” places.
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Spot on Sar.
Thanks for the St. Elmo praise! Sorry you had to sit on the teeny table the other night. We were pretty jam packed that night.
Have you been to Muoi’s Feast? It feels like youre on somebody’s back patio but the food is really great and value for money. Good for a casual dinner with a girlfriend. Plus it’s BYO haha! Not many tourists know about it
Oh and also, as well as M JackBee, check out Garrett Kato. Absolutely amazing talent! Pretty sure they’re playing at The Treehouse tonight if anyone is interested.
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Kinoko Japanese – Seared tuna salad
Orgasmic Felaffel – Felafel Pocket with sauerkraut
Milk & Honey (Mullumbimby) – Mushroom Pizza & Pear & Walnut Salad
Yellow Flower (Suffolk Park) – Sticky date pudding with espresso sauce
Santos Health Food Store/Cafe – Chai carrot cake
Treehouse – Desert Nutella Calzone
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August 15th, 2011 at 10:02 pm
I’ve seen that calzone! Oh my!
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Ahh, Byron Bay!
Such an abundance of natural energy and natural beauty that surrounds Shire….how could you not want to spend some time there to reinvigorate yourself?!?! I for one support the move.
The power of the place is amazing…Living in the shadow of the majestic Wollumbin (Mount Warning), with the rolling hills that lead down to the white beaches and bountiful Pacific Ocean. It is easy to understand why this is a sacred site for the indigenous people, for the eclectic bunch that call it home and for the thousands of tourists who visit to touch its soul.
It is a must to make the pilgrimage up to Cape Byron and stake your claim to your own personal space to watch the sun rise, even better if you can share it with that special person. It is majestic to watch her rise up across the horizon and feel her touch upon your face. If you’re lucky (like Sarah) you will get to witness some of the incredible marine life which calls this sanctuary home.
Also a must is to tackle some of the many walking tracks that wind around the foot and up to Cape Byron. Very peaceful and sometimes the road less traveled by the majority of visitors.
Take the time to get away from main beach and enjoy a swim at either Little Wategos beach, pack a picnic and stay for lunch, or Cosy Corner where a late evening swim might be the order on a nice summer’s day. For those who want the authentic experience or that of old Byron the one that everyone yearns for the return of, visit Sunrise Beach. It is close to the old days as you can experience. Walk through an old farm and out onto the beach – absolutely divine. Just don’t tell anyone.
Moving away from the beaches and onto my favorite places to eat…Nothing new they have all been mentioned, though I will provide support for those who have preceded me. Bayleaf is by far the best café in town, closely followed by the Top Shop. Reason being – the Buttermilk Pancakes with Honeycomb butter are sensational. Apologies I know they are high in sugar, but you have to have a vice in life. The coffee and barista are great too. O-Sushi speaks for itself – quick & easy and great variety. My favorite Thai restaurant is Thai Lucy – not for the aesthetics, but for the quality food. As Candice said, Orgasmic Falafel – sensational pockets to take away and eat at the beach. The Treehouse is my favorite….how can you beat riding your cruiser along the beach or via the bike track to eat the organic pizza? Oh and the stroll up to the beach for an evening swim.
Ok back to the beach. I can’t stay away for long. The “Pass” and “Wategos” are the perfect place to learn the surf, but please ensure you understand the rules of engagement first so you don’t upset the locals. Also jump on a Kayak and explore Cape Byron on the water – you never know what you will see. If you are visiting in summer try scuba diving, it is a must! The marine life in Byron is second to none. Visit the team at Byron Bay Dive Centre for a memorable experience.
With all the activity that you should immerse yourself in it is a must to also pamper yourself and the best way I have achieve that is to visit Shambala on Carlyle Street for a massage….the real deal.
Byron also has the markets that are worth a visit especially the local markets on Thursday and if you are spending a little more time in town – stock up on the local produce, but the Sunday market also provides a good shopping experience.
There also many experiences outside of Byron. Visit Mount Warning and climb it for one of the best views going around, go mountain biking through the rain forests (visit mountain bike tours Byron Bay), take a bush walk to Minyon Falls, and much more – don’t limit yourself.
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Really enjoyed reading what people enjoy in this region. But I have to point out a little error : Satiate in Bangalow has been bought from Shannon by Karl and Katrina Kanetani (Katrina was pastry chef at Pier) who are putting their own stamp on it. It was always good and may now be gooder! Katrina appeared on MasterChef this last series. Her cakes are wonderful!
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Hi Sarah,
Being a local myself, I must say, your list here is pretty comprehensive. Impressive for only 6 months how much you’ve tried. LOL.
I’d like to add the “Bangalow Pub” to your “best eateries” section, for its outstanding flair at showcasing all the amazing local produce, Bangalow Duck, Bangalow Beef, Bangalow Cheese, the 2 x Bangalow (Sweet) Porks, and the list goes on. Also one of my faves is FishHeads in Bangalow which has a wicked midweek madness menu for $35 for 2 courses and a glass of wine! The options are all off the a la carte menu, so you’re not stuck with stodgy or dodgy options just because it’s heavily discounted. It’s fantastic value considering most “Fish of the Days” are around $30 alone. We ate there last night and the Blue Eye Cod on cannelini beans and local chorizo was to die for.
Open fireplaces are a dying breed, but both the “Bangalow Pub” and “The Harvest” have a fire going all during winter – such a treat.
Also a correction Sarah to an error in your mention of Satiate (sorry). It has recently been taken over by Katrina Kanetani who was on MasterChef 2 Mondays ago (Shannon Debreceny is the old chef from Satiate who just sold to Katrina and her husband Karl who is of Japanese/Hawaiian descent and he wows us with his food from his heritage). Katrina is the only pastry chef in Australia to win the coveted “Chef of the Year” award, and she won this in 2007. It’s so fantastic for the Bangalow village to have Katrina and Karl as our local chefs now.
We have such fantastic produce, restaurants, vintage/antique outlets, boutiques with one off’s and art galleries in Bangalow, that it’s worth allowing yourself a day or two (at least) to spend some time in Bangalow if you’re heading to the North Coast. Also Heath’s Antiques in Bangalow is a must-go-see if your a bowerbird, just for their incredible array of ecclectic collectibles. Speaking of bowerbirds, a new collectibles shop has opened in Bangalow, called “BrauerBirds”. Run by the “Brauer” family (a pun on the word bowerbirds), it has gorgeous silk clothes designed by Hannah Brauer herself, very funky, and a host of beautiful collectibles too. I just bought an old fashioned compass for my son from BrauerBirds last week, with the “Road Less Travelled” poem engraved in tiny letters on the back of it. Very cool. Very Unique.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Francesca
SummerHills Retreat Byron Bay
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Hi there,
I think if you seriously want to live a more simple life then you need to visit local businesses that are a lot more humble than the ones you highlight.
The Top Shop for example is such a scene – it’s full of Bondi types and nobody middle aged. Compare it to a corner store somewhere like Lismore and you’ll get a reality check.
Most of the people you have interviewed for this piece are young, style-orientated trendsetters (fashion designers, photographers etc)… if you interviewed more widely and chose a few ‘regular joes’ you’d get vastly different answers…
It shows that you’ve only been here 6 months because you’re still living the life of a tourist.
Joanna
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November 6th, 2011 at 3:01 am
I was thinking it too, I just couldn’t quite word it..and worse..after paying the rent, who can actually afford coffee in that town/ region?..trustagarians or inheritancafarians…eeek!!!…Nothing is real, everything is permitted.
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November 6th, 2011 at 10:43 am
Sorry meant to write trust-ta-farians…bottom line of what I wanted to say is Byron is terribly pricey, tourist pricey. It makes it hard to actually live there. There’s a kind of tag team of people arriving and departing, departing broke arriving with hope…I felt like I was back in bondi….same sameness…
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Hi Sarah,
I was skypeing my daughter in Vancouver this morning & she sent me your Byron blog link. She suggested I send to the guests at my Byron holiday let (www.stayz.com.au/561235), which I’ll do, as it’s a perfect ‘up to date’ guide to BB. As a Byron ‘local’ for 7 years, I agree with all of your recommendations. I’m a bit like you – based in Byron but on planes to Sydney & Adelaide most weeks. I love coming home to Byron each week ….
Can you reccomend a good nutritionist in BB (my daughter sees Sally Joseph in Sydney and says I should go to her, but though there might be a good local?)
David
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August 17th, 2011 at 8:52 am
Hi David
Try Dr Inga Schader at the Bangalow Medical Centre. A god-send to the NorthCoast, only recently arrived here 6 months ago. Western trained GP but also extensively trained & deeply experienced and committed wholistically, prescribes mostly herbs/minerals rather than drugs, and an excellent nutritionist.
Cheers
Francesca
SummerHills Retreat
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August 17th, 2011 at 10:11 am
Thanks Francesca …. much appreciated. I also need a new Byron GP (my really good SYD doctor retired)
David
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September 12th, 2011 at 9:28 am
Hi David just saw your question regarding a good nutritionist in the Byron area, I see Sally Joseph also, she is fantastic, really knows her stuff and last I heard was living between Byron/ Bangalow & Sydney. You could probably find her through her website http://www.sallyjoseph.com.au. I know Sarah has seen her also and Inga contacted her when she moved to Bangalow. They might make a good combination for you! Good luck with it all.
Thought someone would let the cat out of the bag about the locals secret spot the Top Shop – time to find a new cafe for the Sunday morning coffee after the lighthouse walk as it will be now be inundated! guess nothings sacred in th Bay anymore , guess thats why all the locals moved out years ago and leave the place for the tourists!
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Mostly I ever visited the blogs are so very interesting to read and i huge fan of bloggers and would like to blog in..
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Just looked up the ratio thing to support an argument I made in an essay for uni & found this … might dispel the myth of women to men ratio !!!
In the 2006 Census (which is the latest still, untill the recent one comes out), , there were 28,766 persons usually resident in Byron Shire: 14,146 residents (49.2%) were males and 14,620 (50.8%) were females.
actually pretty close huh … !
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23 sleeps and counting – I cannot wait!!!! thanks so much for the list Sarah… I am determined to make good use of it…..
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What about the Pighouse Flicks cinema for a cool Byron experience? They show great Indie and foreign films and have just had a beautiful refurb. They also screen local film-makers’ work every now and then which is fun too…….
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Very good piece of info! thank you for the efforts you have made in writing it…Byron bay is my favorite holidaying destinations for surfing, funky clothing shopping as well as awesome food.
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Just had a gorgeous few days in Byron – thanks for so many tips, Sarah. Just a bit of feedback:
– Byron Beach Cafe – great views but way overprice.
– Loved Top Shop, esp the wooden cutlery, burgers & def best coffee around
– Farmers Market on Thursday was great. Esp loved the raw food stall near the entrance and the stall selling Bangalow coffee
– Loved walk along the beach heading to Lighthouse. Much easier walk back to town via road!
– Best food at St Elmo. Great place to share dishes
– Art & Industrial Park a big disappointment. 2 km walk from town but hardly a highlight. (Did have a look at Spell. Think they should move to Johnson St for more business)
– Best beaches I have found in Australia after a 20 year search
– The Conscious Cafe tucked away behind Woolies! Filling & healthy lunch
– Cheaper to buy a bottle of wine & byo. Cost of drinks more expensive than the meal itself
– We stay in Shirley St & there was almost freeway traffic levels heading into town every morning. Not very relaxing. Next time will stay closer towards The Pass.
Can understand why people move there. Might go a bit stir crazy after a year of so, but well worth a visit.
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Love this website…
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