Detox holiday? Nah. Ride around New Zealand instead
Detox holidays. Everyone’s doing them, right? I call them “poo holidays”…you know.. the ones where people dart off to Bali or India or Thailand to detox and clean out their insides…if you know what I mean.
From what I hear they entail drinking clay (to grab’n’drag whatever’s clinging to their guts) and pumping all manner of things (coffee, herbs) up their you-know-whats. Oh, and then pooing everything back out again. It’s Operation Eliminate…sitting by a pool. My friend Deb goes twice a year. “I come back scrubbed out and recalibrated,” she says.
I’ve never done such a retreat. I mean, you would’ve read about it if I had.
I guess I cling to the idea that our bodies have their own divine way of sorting out our (I promise this is the last mention) shit. I realize I’m about to sound like my Mum when she’d offer me a celery stick when I complained of being hungry. But I think a far better way to detox is to do stuff. Stuck? Move a little. Eaten badly? Eat a stack of good stuff. We are dynamic beings, not passive vessels in need of a hose out.
Me. I prefer to keep things clean and simple. I do bike riding holidays. I always have. I’ve seen New Zealand, Spain, California, The Netherlands, Vietnam, Tasmania, vast tracts of NSW and Victoria by bike as well as the 3000km stretch of coast running from Brisbane to Cairns stopping off at all possible gaudy Big Edible Items en route.
Recently I was invited to ride around the Hawke’s Bay region in New Zealand. It came at a time when I needed to get clean and clear (just after I decided to abort my book project). It was perfect.
[Disclaimer: I was invited as a guest of Tourism New Zealand to experience their new Cycle Trails, a project of 18 new trails that zig-zag across both islands. They know I've ridden quite a bit of the country before and thought I'd like to check it out.]
Five reasons to detox on a bike
- Head down and watching spokes spin, you have a lot of time to think. Actually, it’s more a purging of thoughts. After up to nine hours in the saddle, the toxic thoughts eventually peter out. They just do. And then sweet, Zen-like emptiness. Previously I’ve reinvented my career, had insights into my future, had emotional purgings…the lot! All atop a saddle.
- The pedaling motion is also great for lymphatic drainage. So is the sweating. So is the sun.
- As I’ve said before, detox kits and fancy programs are marketing furphies. Our bodies detox completely – on their own – in 24 hours or so. They detox between 10pm and 2am, which is why all the experts tell us to get into bed by 10. Ride all day and you’re crawling to the pillow as the sun sets.
- Our bodies also detox best via eating. Studies show our livers detox better with protein and good fats present, and will substitute heavy metals back into our systems if the minerals from food are absent.
- Then there’s the fresh air and being in nature aspect of it all.
I rode for four days. And I ate non-stop. Plus I slept. For the first time in yonks.
The Hawke’s Bay deal
I’d never been to this region – a wine and food area in the North West section of the North Island. It’s kind of like the Byron Bay or Daylesford or Santa Cruz or (insert organic/foodie region here) of New Zealand. It has a breezy, healthy vibe where farmers are trying out new grape varieties and opening vineyard restaurants and mid-30-somethings are running cafes and arts projects. Definitely not a daggy outpost.
It’s also emerging as a big biking destination with a series of trails that have just been built that meander you from vineyard to cafe to farmer’s market. I flew into Napier and then set off from there on a bike, and with an itinerary, prepared by Takaro Trails. I didn’t have to use my brain. Nor too much oomph: the area is very flat and the distances not large (which wasn’t quite what I was after, to be honest… but for anyone new to the bike detox caper, I’m sure it’s just perfect). And confession: they delivered my bags to my final destination each day. Which is technically cheating, I know.
The highlights from my trip
- The silence…
- Milk and Honey Restaurant, Napier. Seriously clever food here. You choose a starting point and then sides from there.
- The New Zealanders. I’d fly over there to just be in their company. They’re outgoing, humble, engaging, enthusiastic and not cynical.
- Black Barn Cottages and Bistro. I ate whitebait and then just sat in the vineyard and read. The restaurant has won a stack of awards including best regional restaurant of the year and Cuisine winery restaurant of the year 2011. They also have a grower’s market here on Saturday mornings in summer.
- Breckenridge Lodge. You stay here for the food. Owner Malcolm Redmond is a well-known Kiwi chef who personally cooks your meal that night (along with 4-5 other guests). It’s intimate and friendly and everything is either grown by Malcolm or personally sourced from local farmers. You can also do cooking classes with Malcolm.
- The bike paths. The NZ Government has invested HUGELY in a series of trails.
- Riding on the roads – there are signs advising motorists to keep 1.5m from any bikes. Can you believe it??
- Millar Road Winery and Lodge. It’s a lodge in a vineyard (of the same name). My God. It was like I was on the set of a Wallpaper* magazine shoot. I shopped at the Hawke’s Bay Farmer’s Market earlier (see below) and made dinner that night from the most divine local produce: grass fed lamb, with stuffed zucchini flowers and smoked mushrooms. Gabrielle, the wine maker and owner is an unreal chick. VERY tasteful. VERY clever. Her AndCo.wines are fantastic
- Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market. Make sure you visit such that you’re in the ‘hood on a Sunday. These markets are stupendous and fun. I ate myself silly here – tasting cheese and black pudding and berries and raw biodynamic cheeses from Hohepa. Bless the Kiwis. They really know how to do food well. And are leagues ahead of much of the world with their food fun.
- Taste Cornucopia Organic Cafe. This place is a little piece of Byron Bay (or Santa Cruz or…) in funny old Hastings (which is a town best ridden through). I ate the eggs Benedict with… pork belly. Chef James plays with all the local biodynamic and organic produce of the area in really clever ways…a lot of it done raw.
Also look out for
- Opera Kitchen in Hastings
- Bay Espresso Cafe (one in Havelock North, the other on the road into Hastings)

- Bellatino’s in Havelock North is a great deli with local produce and breads.
- Salvare Estate outside of Hastings. Organic wines…and at the tasting room you can order a Ploughman’s lunch-style platter of cheeses and pastes.
- Elephant Hill Estate restaurant. Stunning views out over the vineyard to the ocean. I rode here from Millar Road listening to Youth Lagoon and couldn’t have been happier.
- Craggy Range Restaurant.I rode a loop track out through a beautiful valley to eat lunch here. The anchoide with vegetables…my goodness (cream and anchoives, blended).
Overall advice
I’ve ridden around New Zealand several times now, totaling about 4500kms. I keep going back and generally at big turning points in my life. It’s the clean food (those Kiwis are obsessed with their organics), the emptiness, the total of three cars you’ll encounter in a day, the network of bike trails that the Government has invested heavily in and the distinct lack of faddish hype, dietary or otherwise.
I always come back balanced. Recalibrated. Which makes me think of Albert Einstein, who – wonderfully – came up with his theory of relativity while riding his bike.
“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.”
Have you ridden around New Zealand? Got favourite tracks? Next time I’m going to do the Otago Rail Trail... Let me know if you want any further advice or details…happy to share.
















I’m feeling all homesick! I’ve not done cycle touring, but I love getting the mountain bike out when I visit my Dad is Gisborne. The trails through the state forest in Rotorua are also fantastic fun. I would love to do the Otago Rail Trail – lots of good vineyards to stop at!
ps Hawkes Bay is North East, not West
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February 24th, 2012 at 11:06 pm
My thoughts exactly. Reading this made me homesick and proud that we were well represented!
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We hired bikes in New Zealand a few years ago and biked Otago peninsula. It was amazing and so beautiful. I’m sure you will have a great time Sarah, NZ has so much fresh and organic food too!
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Great post, thanks Sarah – very motivating!
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This is the most inspiring thing I read today- I feel rested and clean just fantasizing about such a trip!
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February 23rd, 2012 at 11:54 am
Haha me too!
I’m definitely not a cyclist but reading this makes me wish I was! It’s those uphills that put me off ….
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OMG you are such a phoney. Last year when you blogged about this ride didn’t you tell us it was cause you quit writing your book and your body needed a rest as you’d had a setback healthwise??????? Now the truth comes out (as I predicted) – it was a SPONSORED ride.
I hardly ever read this blog anymore and never comment, but this is just pure gold & I couldn’t resist!
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February 23rd, 2012 at 5:13 pm
Of course you couldn’t resist. The world really needs people like you to really appreciate what kindness and good things mean and help people define what they need and want in their lives. Comments like this do nothing but help those who do their best to live on the sunny side of life to keep sharing and helping others. Certainly if you really felt so strongly about how you feel, someone did suggest writing personally to Sarah. I believe she is approachable and would maybe respond to your concerns, indeed if your accusations had any foundation. It is so easy just to get on these blogs and say stuff like you did, and so many of the type of people you represent don’t even bother to make any effort other than make stupid comments. Laziness, apathy and ignorance. Thanks, anyway. Please know that you have no influence on others and your comment will be long forgotten by next week.
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February 23rd, 2012 at 5:49 pm
The fact that she was sponsored doesn’t mean she was not already planning to go for a biking holiday and a rest…She just happened to go here because she was invited to, nothing phoney about it.
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February 25th, 2012 at 8:46 pm
Mia, please feel free not to read this blog or comment again. It clearly upsets you.
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February 25th, 2012 at 8:57 pm
PS, Mia, I can’t contact you direct since every time you come on here you use a different phoney email. So I’m just tagging each one as “spam”.
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February 28th, 2012 at 1:19 am
P.P.S Mia,
Your behaviour is literally an embarrassment. I don’t think you realise just how insecure your comments make you look. Perhaps you ought to take up a hobby, or concentrate on your own endeavours from now on, because your socially retarded comments towards sarah and about this blog are becoming a bit of a novelty to us readers I think. I feel really sorry for you.
Also Sarah, this trip sounds incredible and I’m definitely going to ask my family to go on a trip to NZ this year
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February 28th, 2012 at 9:06 am
And I feel sorry for you Brendan looking like Sideshow Bob. A family holiday, what are you 10 years old or something.
Hey Sarah,
Great post, Im a keen athlete, have been a competitive triathlete and moved down to the Hawkes bay from Auckland 6 months ago from work.
Havn’t tested out the trails yet but must do!
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Hi Sarah,
I just wanted to say what a great job you did at the Conscious Club last night. I read your blog every day but your talk was still so fresh and informative, so thank you for sharing all you did. You looked absolutely radiant as well, definitely a true embodiment of your message.
Lizzie x
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Hi Sarah,
Did you take your own bike over or did they provide you with a bike?
The trip looked amazing.
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February 28th, 2012 at 2:28 pm
Also wondering the same thing…
I’ve only seen photos of a single speed so far in the past.
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I agree Lizzie – fantastic preso Sarah. I left feeling inspired, comforted and humbled to be in the energetic bubble (epicentre of de-excitation wasn’t it?!) of so many beautiful folk. I’m writing a summary of your tips right now while they’re fresh and shiny; and I second the radiance point – you looked gorgeous, sunny and vibrant!
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Mia, I do believe what Sarah said previously of the reason behind her bike trip still stands. She states above also that this offer came at a time when she really needed it, after she left her book deal. She’s a celebrity, she gets endorsements and offers. Deal with it. It doesn’t mean she is a phoney. And can I also add this – nastiness spreads nastiness. If you have a problem with her like that, why don’t you address it via private email to her? Why in a public forum? Because there is a level of anonymity? This is a forum where people share their thoughts and feelings in order to help themselves and others grow. Let’s keep it that way, yes?
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February 23rd, 2012 at 12:16 pm
Crikey Amy, you are more restrained than I was gong to be in reply to Mia. Then I figured if I wrote the words I was really feeling, then that would be stooping to her level. She must have been having a really bad hair day! Great read Sarah, thank you.
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February 23rd, 2012 at 12:34 pm
Hey Amy, aka Sarah Wilson, good reply. I’ll stick with the word phoney. It suits you
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February 23rd, 2012 at 12:46 pm
So no Sarah is posing as commenters on her blog? Rather than reply herself? Yeah, right.
It’s funny you come back here to read the comments and reply to them.
You, Mia, are what we call a troll. If you don’t like the blog, STOP COMING HERE. Rather than writing aggressive comments to start arguments.
Honestly, maybe get a life?
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February 23rd, 2012 at 1:11 pm
Definitely not Sarah. Or anyone affiliated with her. Just someone who likes reading this blog and the comments and likes it when it is a forum full of positivity and growth. Which is what it’s all about. You know.
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February 23rd, 2012 at 3:03 pm
On yer bike Mia.
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I would so love to do something like this, looks amazing. And I love NZ lots.
I love your blog and what you are about, but I am a bit put off by the photo of the bum. Maybe I am a big prude. That’s okay. I still love your work and all.
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Riding around NZ, now that looks sounds like my cup of of tea. what time of the year is the best to go Sarah?
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February 25th, 2012 at 8:48 pm
Any time except winter. Right now is great!
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Sarah I loved this post, gosh the ride sounds gorgeous and the food!! This sounds like my sort of holiday. Now I just need to learn how to ride a bike!
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I have always wanted to visit NZ, and never considered biking. Now I will!
I don’t think it’s a big deal that your trip was sponsored. You disclosed it.
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A lovely, motivating post. Thanks Sarah!
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One of the most memorable holidays I’ve ever had is a girls’ group bike-riding holiday in Grade 11 – from the top of Tasmania (Launceston), and out to the the East Coast, all the way down to Hobart… A total shock to the system and truly unforgettable. That, and another one around Cygnet in the Huon Valley. Wish I could re-create them.
Tassie = bliss for bike-riders.
Love the bum shot by the way.
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New Zealand looks so pretty!
Can anyone say how suitable it would be to a novice rider? And by novice rider, I mean person whose regular exercise is swimming very slowly like a demented porpoise with scuba tank attached to back. And hasn’t touched a bike since I was tiny.
Either way it’s going on my bucket list. I love hearing about travels Sarah, thank you!
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February 24th, 2012 at 6:08 pm
Mia, not sure if you have a gym near you but why not try a spin/cycle class. It’s a tough, 45 min workout but during this time you adjust the gears for flat rides, hill climbs and speed trials. Or if you don’t own a bike, perhaps you could borrow one from a friend and find some suitable bike paths in your area. Saves the cost of buying one if you find out cycling is not your thing.
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February 25th, 2012 at 8:49 pm
mia, hawke’s bay is superflat. This is prob the best ride for you.
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Happy days! A bike blog. Sounds bloody fabulous, and I particularly liked the tie-in with the detoxing theme. Lovely! Thank you, oh and yes- live to know about taking own bike v hiring? What kind of bikes are suitable for the paths?
Cheers!
Ps. I second the bugger off Mia sentiments. What a … *yawn
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Was with you food – wise up until the pork belly.
Sounds like a great trip !
Bum shot ok by me but she could do with a couple of extra kilos imho.
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‘I guess I cling to the idea that our bodies have their own divine way of sorting out our (I promise this is the last mention) shit.’ But you once blogged about having regular colonics yourself. Have you changed your view on them?
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February 25th, 2012 at 8:50 pm
Hmmm, regular colonics? Not me. I did one for a Sunday Life column once
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Hi Sarah. Thank you for the great post, really loved hearing about your adventures. I also loved the photos, it’s nice you shared them on the blog. I’m not on Facebook or Twitter so it’s good to see some of your own photos on this blog….I’m not a bike rider but I still get heaps out of what you do……it’s totally inspiring. Thank you, lovely!
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Wow! Who would have thought a cycling trip in nz would be added to my must do list!?! Must admit all the food talk didn’t hurt. Very inspirational Sarah! Sponsorship? What a timely blessing!
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Aren’t you a charmer Mia? Some of us really enjoy Sarah’s writing-which is why we are reading her blog. If you don’t happen to enjoy it, why troll??
Bye bye now
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This is on my to do list! What a wonderful adventure, thanks for sharing.
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Yeah whoever sorts ur pics out for the story needs to put a bit more thought into it. It’s either a grossly skinny model shoveling sweet stuff down her neck or a bum shot in ur face after talking about poo!!!! I’m cringeing and I’m a nurse who deals with this from other people daily.
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February 24th, 2012 at 9:28 pm
Yeah, that photo is so very wrong. Doesn’t sit well with the (supposed) theme of this blog. Something more realistic next time perhaps?
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February 25th, 2012 at 11:15 am
OMG, you people need to relax and get a sense of humour.
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Hey Sarah I’d love a post with tips and advice for biking holidays in general – the logistics and pre-trip preparation (how fit I need to be hehe), where in Oz to go etc. x
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February 28th, 2012 at 2:44 pm
I second that!
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I love this – my husband and I have been talking about doing a similar supported bike tour around England next year and it’s motivating us to get on our bikes twice a week to make sure we’re fit enough. Now that I know the same sort of ‘carry your bags’ deal is available in NZ, we might need to take a mini-break first!
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Ooohhhh Black Barn, love it!! We were there in February last year, so beautiful! Thanks for the reminder.
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Hi Sarah,
I know this could go under “if you don’t have anything nice to say…”, but it’s been bugging me for a while so I want to vent it..!
I love your blog – I read every article and really dig the content, but am really finding your writing style jarring! At first I thought it was nice and emphatic, but now it doesn’t seem very fluid and it actually makes me feel a bit nervous/uncomfortable. I’m no writer by any means and don’t claim to know what I’m talking about, so am merely expressing how I feel when I read your articles. They’re very stop/start which is a little nerve wracking.
E.g. “Head down and watching spokes spin, you have a lot of time to think. Actually, it’s more a purging of thoughts. After up to nine hours in the saddle, the toxic thoughts eventually peter out. They just do.”
“The pedaling motion is also great for lymphatic drainage. So is the sweating. So is the sun.”
It’s all the short sentences that stop and start. I don’t know, I just don’t find it very easy to read and you do it quite a bit.
Should probably just get over it but hey, maybe I’m not the only one? And maybe writers like feedback? (If not, disregard!)
Cheers
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February 24th, 2012 at 5:05 pm
Anna, how boring would it be if every writer, journalist or blogger wrote in the same way? Don’t forget this is a blog not a novel. I for one love Sarah’s writing style, as it’s light and personal and written with a smile.
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February 24th, 2012 at 6:02 pm
Anna, I follow a few bloggers and this writing style seems to be the current trend. But maybe Sarah has a reason for doing so. And in a way I agree with what you say. The stop/start makes it feel like an incomplete somehow.
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February 27th, 2012 at 7:51 am
I think more than a trend it is people writing in a similar manner to how they speak. So rather than reading it like you would a novel, you need to read it like an email from a friend – as though they are speaking to you.
Loved this article – I’ve missed this type of post here. And as someone who finds it hard to ride to the local shops, I am totally inspired!! Would love to hear about more (easy) cycling trips. Thanks, Sarah
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February 27th, 2012 at 12:48 pm
Amy, do you really think people speak this way?? I have never heard anyone talk using one or two word sentences. “I rode. Sat. Rested”….omg, I’d be asleep after 2 minutes.
March 4th, 2012 at 5:09 pm
I disagree, Amy, I think it’s people writing the opposite to how they speak! A full stop is the end of a sentence, a pause, when you take a breath if you’re reading out loud. Which is why reading massive articles written that way is quite jarring.
theoatmeal.com/comics/semicolon
Great post Sarah. Your attitude to the detox industry is spot on! And you are always inspiring.
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My brother went on a poo holiday to thailand, and he came back with a bum fungus. All the more reason to bike ride around NZ me thinks… hehe. Lucky his wife is very understanding, it was their honeymoon.
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February 25th, 2012 at 8:51 pm
Bum fungus!!!! Oh dear.
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Hi Sarah,
This is my dream – to go on cycling holidays everywhere!! Up until now my children have been too small to consider doing this – but now we could even start with Western Plains Zoo!
I’ve been dreaming about riding around Tasmania, Margaret River, South Australia Food area and France and visiting all of the fresh food producers (raspberry farms, cheese producers, salmon fishermen etc!) and fuel my body with fresh food while having the journey and creating memories that last a lifetime!
Soooo love this post!
Sarah!
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I love love love this!
You’ve inspired me to sign up for the London Barclays Bike Hire scheme and ride to my errands/grocery shopping rather than catch the bus or tube. I love bike riding and am looking forward to doing lots more during Spring/Summer/Autumn this year.
Thanks Sarah. I seriously loved this post and I don’t care if it was sponsored or not.
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Hiya,
Can I ask how you plan such an event? Do you map out how far you are going to ride in one day and book a room some place close to that location? Or do you wing it and get rooms as you go? It looks like you eat as you go as well, but do you take certain things with you that you may need (e.g. change of clothes, napkins)?
I’d really like a post on all the mundane stuff that you get together to organize this!
Great Blog!! Thanks!!!
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February 27th, 2012 at 12:45 pm
Courtney, as this was a sponsored trip I’m sure everything was organised for Sarah (including accom). But good question when going random cycling.
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I did a ride around Waiheke island earlier this summer. No words….. it was complete & absolute paradise! there are 2, 4, and 8 hour tracks around the island and beaches EVERYWHERE. I stopped at at least 6 pristine beaches & the tracks are spectacular! When we stopped for a break on the road it wasn’t 30 seconds before a local stopped to ask if we were lost and needed help. LOVE NEW ZEALAND!!
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Wow as a Kiwi from Hawke’s Bay recently moved to Melbourne this makes me feel a little homesick. Especially the bit about Milk and Honey- I’d go there with my Mum for coffee (there, and Madisons on Tennyson St, Napier) *Sigh*
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Hi Sarah,
Terrific description of your trip! Just wondering which Tarako trails itinerary you did and how many days?
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Hi Sarah,
Terrific description of trip. Just wondering which tarako trails itinerary you did and how many days?
Jenny
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I so agree about ‘inner cleansing’ our bodies are perfectly made to do this naturally! If you want to detox, well eat healthly
I also cycle to cleanse myself, I’m a transport cyclist, so go everywhere on my bike that I can.
Just found your website/blog, a great read.
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i love this blog, i have been wanting to do something exactly like this, and you have convinced me to do it next jan=) what has been the best part of NZ that you have biked? best meaning, presttiest and also moderately challenging to cycle…=)
i love you blog, i am getting so inspired by your transparency and “realness”, another quick question, you mentioned that you went off sugar wanting to lose 12 kilos, did this happen? and if so was it just going off sugar, or did you have to work a bit more than that?
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