A slow food and hiking guide to Andalucia
Over the next couple of weeks I’ll be sharing some of the details of my travels…as little guides that you can cut ‘n’keep for later. Or be inspired by. Each one will have a “slow” (mindful, deep-rooted, social, life-loving) ethos and be centred on food and hiking. Because that’s what I do.
So to start, I’d like to do a rundown of my wonderfully dry, minerally rich, sweltering hot time in Southern Spain. A list of highlights. And wonderful lessons learned.
Sardines at El Lago
If I were going to Spain, would I do much differently? Nope, I had a perfect time here. I focused on small towns. This is where things are at.
What would I recommend? Focusing on a region. Andalucia (in the south of Spain) would be my pick, absolutely. It’s mad and wild and relatively poor and basic. But herein lies it’s beauty. Artists and hikers and foodies and conquerors and Kings and Queens have gravitated here. I can see why. You will too.
What else? Get away from the ocean into the hills…only really 30 minutes from the beaches.
But to some highlights, blow by blow…and in some sort of order.
Malaga
- Eating sardines cooked in a boat (they use an old tinnie and pile it with coals and grill the fish on the beach in front of you). Simply head out east toward Pedregalejo from the main part of town. Look out for Las Acacias…apparently the most authentic place on the beach. The servings are huge!
- Doing a tapas tour with Casey from Biznaga Travel Company. She’s an Australian who went wandering and found herself in Malaga…eating. She now runs boutique foodie tours of the south of Spain. She works with Frank Camorra, the big guy from Melbourne’s Movida restaurant.
- Eating fouie caliente con heovo frito (foie on a potato stack with a fried egg on top) at Danni Garcia’s La Moraga. Danni is like Spain’s Jamie Oliver and worked at El Bulli. Also, his “Burger Bull” – bull’s tail cooked osso bucco style…on a burger bun (I ate without the bun). These are tapas…I drank with a Pedro Ximenez.
Fouie caliente con heovo frito at La Moraga
- Walking up to the big castle on the hill, eating a ripe fig from the markets stuffed with local almonds for breakfast sitting on the rocks up high, then walking back down via the Parador to have a coffee with a view and some very handsome waiters.
Ronda
- Catching the train up through El Chorro from Malaga. The trains in Spain are just wonderful. Cool, quiet, clean and cheap. El Chorro is a stunning canyon and the best way to see it is from the massive train windows.
a tunnel shot on a very clean train
help me Ronda!
- I arrived late to Ronda, tired and hungry. I got decision paralysis, but my wanderings around for The Perfect Lunch saw me end up in The San Francisco area a long way from my hotel (Hotel Baraka…if you’re wondering…very cute and lovely). Lo, I was later told it’s the best area to eat – away from the tourists. I settled for Almocabar restaurant, worried that at 3pm I would turn inside out if I didn’t eat immediately. I happily ate swordfish alone. Then a bunch of local artists invited me over to join them. They wanted to know why I was sitting and traveling solo. Maria – a painter – and I talked about relationships. She shared this:
“If you’re a smart person, it’s hard. Because you’re capable of weighing up the pros and cons of being with a man…and they never stack up…so you stay alone.” I don’t know if it was the wine. But this stuck with me.
They invited me to an art opening with them that night…they ended up not making it…but I met another group of people there…and they took me out for dinner. And I ate the most incredible meal. Sadly, I didn’t take down the name…but Hotel Baraka’s owner has a wonderful list of places the locals go to. This place was one of them.
- You must eat at Bodega Socorro. The locals do. The new-found bunch of artists assured me this was one of the best places for tapas and bigger meals. We ate kidney skewers, asparagus and grilled Iberian pork.
Hiking around the White Villages.
- You must do this. Hike in the area, that is. And if you do, you must consult Guy Hunter-Watts’ guide, Hiking in Andalucia. Contact him or buy his books via his facebook page or his site (check out his accommodation options!). Or you can stay at his place and head off from there (which is what I did).
Gorgeous guy and his partner Tiki on their farm
and dinner on their verandah
- I love village-to-village hikes. There’s a sense of purpose in it. Guy set me up with a ripper – three days of hiking, 3-8 hours a day, finishing each night at a lovely little hostel. And eating…
This is what I carry for the whole hiking trip. I don’t even carry food for lunch. I rinse out my undies and shirt each night and they’re dry for the next day.
- I started in Zahara. Visit Zahara… even just to eat at Restaurant Al Lago. Mona and Stef are passionate about promoting the region’s food. Stef is an ex-New York chef. The walk I did started from the restaurant (it’s also a hotel….so you could stay there).
Zahara, as viewed from an hour into my hike
- The walk to Grazalema from Zahara. Temperature: about 38. People seen: 0. I did this video on the way in a moment of “I have to share this with someone!!!”.
- In Grazalema, Meson El Simancon was the place to eat. I had Iberian pork and a… pork consumme.
- The hike to Montejaque from Grazalema. Temperature: even hotter. People seen: 0. I did this video on the way. I talk about cairns mostly, but it’s a good way to see the area and to get a feel for the beauty.
- In Montejaque I stayed at Posada del Fresno, the cutest little place where the owners treat you like you’re their grandkid. The owner is a mad cave walker and can show you some amazing walks in the area. PS Guy Hunter Watts sorted me out with the best accommodation options en route.
Granada
- I won’t give you a history lesson on the place, nor will I go on about the Alhambra (the massive Moorish palaces built for the Emirs). But do go. I went late afternoon and spent half the time in the gardens meditating, before descending (the walk back into town is one of the highlights) to eat with friends.
- You might want to consider staying a little out of Granada, towards the Alpujarras or Sierra Nevada (the mountain ranges between Granada and Malaga). I did. I got the best of both worlds – visits into Granada, 25 minutes away, plus easy access (a bus ride) to the mountains. I stayed with a mate Sophie who has an apartment for rent… you can contact her here.
- Tapas tours! Granada is home of the free tapas. You drink, you get fed. I met up with the gorgeous Gayle, a Scottish woman who runs Granada Tapas Tours and what she doesn’t know about the history, the wine, the food, ain’t worth wrapping your brain cells around. Seriously, she’s a hoot. Some joints she recommended:
Bodega Los Tintos (good wine, packed with locals, where you´ll see the ladies in their finest),
La Tana (a mixed crowd, standing room only wine place)
Patio Mesón (an old “conversation house” where men learned to be men!)
Casa de Vinos (no need for explanation – right beside a 500yr old convent)
Now that’s a wine list!
Corrala (great meat place with a quaint dining room and whiskey room too)
Hiking the Alpujerras.
- Again, I consulted Guy Hunter Watts for the best options – this time from his Walking in Andalucia book. I passed through some incredible “white villages”, hiking 3-6 hours a day for three days.
Here at the highest point in the Alpujerras and just at that moment I saw a text that I’d become a Godmother to little Charlotte Joan!
- Not into hiking? Try horseriding.
- Also try out one of the Hammam’s – the Arabic baths. Get scrubbed and massaged and soak in the waters – it’s almost pitch black inside – and emerge into the searing heat feeling slightly… stoned!
- Meditating in churches: I do this in most cities. Grenada has some amazing churches, which you usually have to pay for and share with tourists. My tip: come back after 7:30 when they open again for the locals to pray in.
Phew. That’s all for now. Feel free, in the spirit of cairns-making, to add your tips for anyone travelling to the region. Oh, and tell me, is there anything more you’d like to learn from these guides??
Sarah, I am so loving living vicariously through your travel diaries! Right this moment, I am a cubicle dweller, but early next year I am planning my own sojourn to Europe. And Spain is definitely on the cards, so this is just so deliciously-crazy-tantalizing to read!!
The food sounds wonderful – simple and rustic and packed with flavour. Also, the concept of free tapas while you drink… It sounds amazing, such a win-win, and I definitely need to partake in it! Now I’m wondering whether I can get it to catch on in my local in Brisbane…?!!!
I would love to hear more about traveling solo – the ups and the downs; and also the realities of hiking – are you blistered and bruised? Are you getting your main luggage shipped ahead? Do you listen to music? Do you get lonely? Is it the most liberating thing ever?!!
[Reply]
Dear Sarah… I must say you have completely reignited my love for your writing and story telling (be it visual or written)! I was a reader and then I waned for a while there. Yet, over the past month I have become really interested in your Instagram and blog all over again. So much so that I now find myself looking FORWARD to it!
Love it. Keep doing what you are doing. It inspires and it rocks.
MM
[Reply]
Oh wow. Wow wow wow. I am vaguely planning a trip to Europe at the moment (hoping to stay there for a while rather than just holiday), and I’m also learning Spanish and your ideas have come at JUST the right time.
You are so inspiring!
[Reply]
“If you’re a smart person, it’s hard. Because you’re capable of weighing up the pros and cons of being with a man…and they never stack up…so you stay alone.”
Exactly what I’ve been thinking for the last year or two. If I didn’t like sex so much I’d be a crazy cat lady before the age of 30.
Thank you Sarah, such a beautiful country I have been longing to visit! I love reading your travel stories and especially lusting over the food.
[Reply]
Thanks for sharing your adventures and tips with us. I am interested in any tips you have for travelling solo. I usually travel by myself and love to hear how others handle it.
[Reply]
Hi Sarah. I don’t usually comment, but I just wanted to say I truly admire your zest for life and I love reading your blog. Thanks.
[Reply]
July 24th, 2012 at 11:44 pm
thank you !
[Reply]
Sarah, you are incredibly inspiring! Your post really resonated with me. I think walking is the best form of meditation there is, and what beautiful surrounds you have to take in and ponder things. I love what you have packed for your hike as well. Not a thing more of less than what you need. Also, that is one well-loved hat! I hope you have a beautiful time.
Michelle.
[Reply]
SO inspiring! Living through your adventures at the moment and loving it. Have a wonderful time. This is inspiring me to get my finances sorted so I can travel again soon
[Reply]
Great post, thank you, but it is Granada, not Grenada!
[Reply]
July 24th, 2012 at 11:45 pm
oopss!!! I know…damn auto default spelling thingo!
[Reply]
July 25th, 2012 at 1:04 pm
Haha easy fixed! Glad you mentioned the Alhambra – one of the most gorgeous, yet underrated places I’ve ever seen I think!
[Reply]
It is SUCH a pleasure to watch you do your thing Ms S x
[Reply]
July 24th, 2012 at 11:45 pm
ARe you back in Brisbane? Coping?
[Reply]
July 25th, 2012 at 9:41 am
Not really (!). Would go back in a flash but just trying to take my time with it. Never know what’s around the corner.
[Reply]
I spent a month in southern spain 10 years ago and a week based in Bubion (a white village at the base of Sierra Nevada) hiking too….thanks for the reminder of that blissful time of my life Sarah x
[Reply]
WOW!!
[Reply]
I am simply loving your travel/life changing blogs. I, as one of your other comments stated, would also like to know more of the ups and downs of hiking alone. It’s the detail in your stories that we all seem to love! Another area of interest to me is how do you get used to dining alone and how do you manage to engage other people/make friends at your various eateries (without seeming to be desperate!) ?? One of the great things about travelling is the opportunity to meet and get to know the locals and this is probably more likely to happen if you are not travelling with a companion. Keep those blogs happening and enjoy the journey
[Reply]
Glad you loved the great city of Granada and got together with Gayle of http://www.granadatapastours.com She is indeed a “hoot” and the best guide anyone could wish for to a city that has so much to offer.
So often people just seen the main streets and not the more historic and atmospheric parts of Granada. And they go to the touristy bars where all they will get is a plate of crisps.
Clearly Gayle took you to the right tapas bars. The ones mentioned are excellent and there are plenty more to go out.
Come back to Spain soon Sarah.
[Reply]
It’s a wonderful region, I spent a very happy week there about ten years ago. I now want to go back! Btw on the theme of ‘slow’ there’s a beautiful book by Carl Honore ‘In Praise of Slow’.
[Reply]
Really enjoying following your adventure. Would love to know what you’re using for your videos/images. Is it just your mobile / iPhone? If you’re able to reply – thanks!
[Reply]
Hola Sarah’s travel blog readers! Have had a few emails, so just letting you know I am her mate near granada and if you fancy following in her footsteps and visiting the fabulous lecrin valley for some r&r come and see us here: http://www.casacallistemon.com. Sx
[Reply]
Hi from Marbella Sarah,
Great blog post – interesting and stimulating. Guy Hunter Watts is a good friend of mine and one of the nicest people you could wish to meet. I did some of his coast to coast charity walk with him last year along with some walks up in Grazelema.
FYI, http://www.books4spain.com has a great selection of over 65 Spanish cook and recipe books, including Frank Camorra’s Movida range, and Ann Manson of Annie B’s Kitchen is reviewing Espana, Exploring the Flavours of Spain By James Campbell Caruso for us. Check the books out at http://books4spain.com/search/categorybooks/1/15
Looking forward to next post!
[Reply]
I’ve been in Andalusia in April for my honeymoon. We loved it, we still love it and planning to go back next year. I’ve been in Granada and Alpujarras as you and I can confirm what you write. Alas, I missed the tapas tour.
[Reply]
Mark’s Daily Apple did something today on slow living which I think you’d enjoy.
http://www.marksdailyapple.com/the-pleasures-of-slow-living/#more-30588
[Reply]
Hi Sarah, A friend and I are planning on going to Spain for a month in October/November and doing as much walking/cycling and eating there as we can. I have found your suggestions here so helpful and am busy googling them all right now. Anything else you would care to recommend in this or other regions. Did you drive yourself around??
[Reply]
August 23rd, 2012 at 5:52 pm
Hi Tamara,
If you are in Andalucia and want to walk you really must get in touch with Guy Hunter Watts re any walking – he is brilliant and has 2 fab books: Walking in Andalucia and Coast to Coast to Walk. We also have a great selection of other books re walking and hiking in Spain as well as many books about the different regions and of course the Camino de Santiago. Way too much to do in 2 months but Oct/Nov usually good for
walking in Andalucia.
You can see all out travel, holiday and leisure books here:http://books4spain.com/search/categorybooks/1/9
Our Walking, trekking and Hiking guides here: http://books4spain.com/search/categorybooks/1/9/90
Our Camino de Santiago books here: http://books4spain.com/search/categorybooks/1/9/163
[Reply]
[...] a tapas tour with Casey from Biznaga Travel Company. She’s an Australian who went wandering and found herself in Malaga…eating. She now runs [...]