A culinary highlight during my time in France recently: eating at Alain Ducasse’s La Bastide de Moustiers restaurant in Moustiers Saint Marie in Provence…not far from the Gorge du Verdon (a mouthful!). I was in the area hiking and mountainbiking with my brother and it felt just plain wrong not to eat there. I was reminded that it was here in the region while scouting MrandMrsSmith …they look after the hotel and restaurant on their site.
Elegance on a plate
Let it be said: the French know how to plant food on a plate perfectly. Somehow it doesn’t come out all pretentious and silly. It’s all for a reason. Just enough fussiness to show a carrot the respect it deserves. Just enough jus or smear or garnish to make a turnip sing. There is no superfluous flourishes, no excess, always just enough and always respect for the process of eating.
This is why the French don’t get fat: they’re not at war with food. They’re at ease with it.
I admire the way the French eat. I really do. But back to Bastides….
I ate nine courses, sitting on a terrace overlooking lavender fields and olive groves with that Provencal light that sends Peter Mayle-ites into spins. I’ll share more pictures of the various courses below. But first to course four: a plate of vegetables. Yes. A plate of vegetables. All picked that morning. Supremely fresh and sweet. They were served before the meat (pork) arrived. Which is a nice idea. Too often vegetables are seen as fodder, to be doused in sauce, mopped up with the meat, used to fill out a meal. Rarely do we get to truly taste vegetables on their full glory.
We go to organic markets on weekends and ooh and ahh over the artichokes and the heirloom tomatoes.
But how often do we eat them from a pedestal?
But also, vegetables, cooked al dente, are full of enzymes, which aid digestion and can get the gut ready for the meat that follows. It’s why the French often eat a salad before a meal. And – importantly – always with butter or oil. As I’ve written before, many of the vitamins and minerals in vegetables are fat-absorbable only. Which is to say, you need to eat them with fat.
But to the vegetables, cooked by chef Christophe, en cocotte…
Provencal vegetables
- 1 tbls olive oil
- 1/2 celeriac, peeled and sliced as you would a melon
- 4 carrots, scrubbed
- 2 zucchini, halved lengthwise, then halved across
- 2 zucchini flowers, halved lengthwise
- 4 x broccoli florets or 4 x asparagus stems
- 2 small artichokes, halved, or a few radishes, halved
- a handful of mushrooms, such as as Chanterelles, chopped (optional)
- splash of sherry (or apple cider) vinegar
Heat oil in a large flameproof casserole dish, place vegetables on top and sprinkle with salt and cook for 2-3 minutes.
Add the mushroom and stew over a low heat for a further 5-10 minutes, stirring gently from time to time. Add a splash of sherry vinegar and stir again gently to deglaze the cooking juices. Add freshly ground black pepper.
Serve in the cooking pot or in a serving dish.
It’s Spring. Go to the markets and buy the best vegetables you can find. And try just …eating them.
And what about the rest of the meal? Well, it went like this:
Provençal gaspacho. What you can’t see: the garlic purée, lemon sauce and perfect heirloom tomatoes. The soup is poured over the top. ALL the vegetables and herbs are grown here. And the oil.
Pork!
Fromage: Tomme, Banon, Saint-Andre
Cheese with lettuce makes so much culinary sense…
I’m rarely happier than when I spend three hours eating nine courses, alone….
How do you cook your vegetables to give them hero status?
Hi Sarah, I enjoyed reading this post and pictured you sitting there, eating, enjoying and absorbing all things French. I was interested to read about the food’s lack of pretentions because I have eaten at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester (which sounds a bit pretentious in itself) where the food could have done with the elegance of simplicity. I confess that it was in 2009, and styles could have changed since then, but until I read your post I would have steered clear of his over-priced, overly fussy fare where the flavours got lost in translation…
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I stayed here in March, and eating at the restaurant was an EXQUISITE experience. I remember thinking the baby carrots were so beautiful I almost couldn’t bear to eat them. I’m really pleased you could experience that Sarah! For all your hard work, you deserve such a great meal.
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Oh my Lord that cheese… This is basically my erotica. I’m off to the markets to find some fromage.
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Thanks Sarah, I needed that this morning. I’ve long admired the way the French approach things in particular their food. I love as you say that they are not at war with their food. Yesterday, in preparation for quitting sugar (again) I stocked up on a couple of different cheeses to combat any cravings. I’ve since been driving myself batty with should I have bought that cheese; is it good/healthy; blah, blah, blah. Yes, I admire the way they eat fresh, natural produce and just enjoy it! I also love their philosphy for choosing quality over quantity be it with their food or their wardrobe choices.
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I so badly want to be French. They seem to do lots of things right. Especially the women, I work with a few, and they are just stunning! So stylish and chic. So much so, that it takes you a while to realize they rarely wear make-up, or high heels, or do much with their hair. They have a whole different idea of style, one I very much admire.
I keep my vegetables pretty basic, just cooked on low heat in olive oil/ butter with fresh garlic. Sometimes with chick peas on top.
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I steam my vegetables in a steamer and sprinkle Moroccan Olive Oil or culinairy Argan oil (that I bring in myself). with a little bit of sea salt et voila. Or I make a harissa and mix it through the veggies.
My French and Moroccan side of the family are very relaxed about food and take time to enjoy the food and talk about the ingredients the entire duration of the meal. They will discuss the price of tomatoes, talk about the meat, and the new olive oil press of uncle so and so.
Also I find that whenever I go back home where all meals are shared, I eat until I feel I had enough and I lose weight and look and feel better.
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Last night I sauteed purple kale, broccolini, cauliflower and roast pumpkin bits with coriander, chilli, garlic, ginger splash of tamari and lime juice and topped with asian omelette- 3 eggs whisked and cooked in a pan with some peas (like an asian, thin fritata I guess). The best bit (apart from the taste) was the riot of colour on the plate, veggies are my heroes as much for their versatility, colour and variety.
And I shared it with my beautiful housemate- shared food, enjoyed with a friend, conversation, mindful joyous eating.
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How i wish to be spring here also:) but we are getting ready for winter…
I went to the countryside in the mountains this weekend and my friends (who live in a remote village) let me pick some vegetables from their garden/field -carrots, celery, potatoes, parsel, etc) and i made the most delicious vegetable soup with such a good taste.
And the feeling to pick your own fresh vegetables was exquisite!
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I love vegetables & salad. Tonight I had a brown rice & harissa salad. You roast the veggies like zucchini, baby eggplant, squash, kumera & red capsicum with oil & harissa (middle eastern spices) once cooked you mix it with a cup of cooked brown rice with a dressing made of olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice and freshly chopped oregano. It’s divine. My son who is a meat lover, never wants meat when we have this for dinner.
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My favourite vegetable worship- sauteed in ghee w tomato, onion n garlic, ajwain, mustard seeds, sea salt and a splash of luxury water and fresh gomasio. Mmm…
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Memories. My aunt lives in senas Provence and years ago I mentioned to her that I’d read Peter mayle books and enjoyed them. She told me unfortunately when they were translated to French, it didn’t go down well. Oh well. When I stayed with her we ate from the local markets. Fresh strawberries and asparagus. And long lunches! Bliss
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